Arriving at Vigdís Finnbogadóttir’s house just before noon on Friday, I find a note on the door: “Anna, please wait! I’m on my way,” signed “ViFi.” I go back to the car and nervously watch the clock. I do not want to keep Vigdís Finnbogadóttir waiting. I let eight minutes go by before trying again. This time, her note is gone and there’s a car in the driveway. I ring the bell and the 83-year-old former president of Iceland comes to the door.